Cashmere Lab
Anything knitted can be crafted in cashmere – this is the unwavering conviction here at LISA YANG. Our Cashmere Lab is the essence of the label, where we revisit the fibre, time and time again, in search of new innovations that help us refine the characteristics of cashmere and reimagine what the fibre can become. Each season, together with our producers, we conduct case studies to explore new expressions in cashmere, grounded in our material and artisan expertise. From the fine, downy cashmere hairs meticulously combed by hand to the exceptionally soft finished garment, we approach cashmere as an exercise in innovation – blending artisan expertise, time-honoured craftsmanship and modern production techniques into a singular exploration of cashmere.
-
Open KnitBy extending the loops and varying the gauge and tension, the open knit technique creates an airy, handcrafted appearance with a soft, fluid drape. Applied across different weights and structures, from cable knits to crochet-inspired yarns, the open surface lends a lightweight, semi-sheer quality ideal for layering and warm weather dressing.
-
Precision KnitBy varying the size and density of loops, this technique creates volume, folds and drapes directly within the knitted fabric. Through the meticulous increasing and decreasing of stitches, each shape is engineered on the knitting machine rather than cut and constructed afterwards, requiring specialist technical expertise.
-
Knitted Pankou TechniqueDrawing inspiration from the traditional knot buttons of the qipao, the Pankou button is an ancient Chinese garment closure reinterpreted by LISA YANG as knitwear. The closure is incorporated directly into the knitted structure through hand-linking and a tubular construction, creating a sleek, refined finish without the need for sewing.
-
Pearl Brioche & Bubble KnitAlternating between smooth, pearl-like surfaces and sculptural raised forms through the meticulous increasing and decreasing of stitches, the pearl brioche and bobble knit techniques develop a three-dimensional character, bringing graphic depth, texture and volume to the garment. The intricate constructions result in highly tactile surfaces with distinctive visual effects.
-
3D StructuresThrough accentuated rib structures at the neck, cuffs or hem, these pieces achieve a sculptural 3D effect. Filled with raw cashmere fibre – the same material used to knit the garment itself – they get volume and shape without the use of synthetic fillers, introducing new dimensions while remaining entirely true to the natural characteristics of cashmere.
-
Cashmere FringesA variation of intricate fringing techniques bring volume and motion to our statement pieces. Raw fringes, made from unknitted cashmere yarn hand-attached to linked panels, create a distressed, fray-like effect, while knitted fringes are twisted, rolled, and hand-linked onto the garment. Tubular fringes offer a more structured and solid expression with a heavier drape.
-
Experimental Cable KnitOur experimental cable knits reinterpret the archetypal pattern in novel, directional ways. Through scaling and sculpting classic cable patterns and/or combining different knitting techniques, silhouettes become expressive, with sculptural forms or intricate, graphic textures, pronounced depth and dimensionality.
-
Deconstructed PleatsAn exploration of knitted pleats, this technique creates the illusion of pleating through overlapping fringed panels linked together at the top. Forming a trompe l’oeil effect that appears folded, deconstructed and reassembled, the construction brings structure and movement to the garment.
Our Cashmere
Fibre
To secure the highest quality and longevity in our collections, we exclusively use hand-selected, Grade A cashmere fibres – the finest, highest quality fibres that exist, measuring 36 millimetres in length and 14 micrometers in diameter. These longer, finer fibres are spun into yarns which are exceptionally soft, lightweight and durable – ensuring garments that resist pilling and maintain their structure over time. The fibres we use are sourced directly from our herders, reflecting our commitment to transparency.
Our 100% cashmere composition is the starting point of each collection, and every piece in this category is crafted from organic cashmere. Our factory is certified by Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), a universally recognised, leading standard for organic textiles including environmentally oriented, technical and social criteria, and so is the cashmere yarn and woven silk that we use in our collections.
Organic cashmere indicates that there are no synthetic fertilisers, pesticides or herbicides used on the land where the goats graze; no harmful dyes involved in the production process; and that the water is carefully treated before it is released back into the environment. Additionally, there are social standards in place to ensure fair treatment of the workers in the supply chain.
Process
Our journey starts on the high plateaus of Inner Mongolia, where the fine, downy hairs of the cashmere goat are meticulously combed by hand. These delicate fibres are then spun into yarns, knitted into fabrics, and crafted into contemporary pieces that form a complete cashmere wardrobe. Every step is a testament to precision – from measuring the fibre lengths to adjusting the yarn counts and shaping the silhouettes with careful consideration to form and function, demonstrating the intricate artisanry behind the product.
About Cashmere
Cashmere Hairs
Capra Hircus goats (cashmere goats), native to Inner Mongolia, are acclimated to the harsh, extremely cold winters they live through. To protect from temperatures as low as -30°C, the goats grow very soft, fine and downy hair below their long and coarse outer coat. As temperatures rise in spring, herders carefully hand comb the goats to extract the fine fibres, which would otherwise shed naturally. Cashmere goats produce a limited volume of these fibres each year – an average sweater requires two to five goats’ hair for production, illustrating the exclusive nature of cashmere.
Length & Fineness
The longer the fibre length, the better – longer fibres will reduce the volume of pilling as shorter fibres more easily loosen from the surface of the piece. Cashmere fibres are very fine – with an average diameter of less than 19 microns, compared to human hair which is 60-120 microns in diameter.
Insulation
Although extremely fine, cashmere fibres are hollow, making them lightweight and able to adjust to shifting temperatures. During winter, the air chambers trap heat from the body to prevent it from escaping, and insulates the wearer over eight times better than wool. In warmer months, the hygroscopic fibre wicks moisture away from the skin and creates a cooling effect, which extends the wearability of cashmere well into summer.
Gauge & Ply
Gauge refers to how tightly the cashmere has been knitted, which is measured in stitches per inch. The higher the gauge number, the finer the piece. An 18 gauge sweater is considered a featherweight, fine knit piece, whilst a 5 gauge sweater has a visibly thicker look and feel. Ply refers to the number of threads twined together to make a single piece of cashmere yarn. If two threads are combined, this is known as 2 ply cashmere, and three twisted threads are referred to as 3 ply, etc. Since cashmere hairs are naturally fine, they benefit from the increased strength of the twisted thread. Higher plies add to the fabric’s weight and warmth, but do not indicate additional quality.
Adding texture, fluidity, structure or transparency, our bespoke knitting techniques bring the fabric to life while preserving the unmistakably soft hand of cashmere.
Our Cashmere
Fibre
To secure the highest quality and longevity in our collections, we exclusively use hand-selected, Grade A cashmere fibres – the finest, highest quality fibres that exist, measuring 36 millimetres in length and 14 micrometers in diameter. These longer, finer fibres are spun into yarns which are exceptionally soft, lightweight and durable – ensuring garments that resist pilling and maintain their structure over time. The fibres we use are sourced directly from our herders, reflecting our commitment to transparency.
Our 100% cashmere composition is the starting point of each collection, and every piece in this category is crafted from organic cashmere. Our factory is certified by Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), a universally recognised, leading standard for organic textiles including environmentally oriented, technical and social criteria, and so is the cashmere yarn and woven silk that we use in our collections.
Organic cashmere indicates that there are no synthetic fertilisers, pesticides or herbicides used on the land where the goats graze; no harmful dyes involved in the production process; and that the water is carefully treated before it is released back into the environment. Additionally, there are social standards in place to ensure fair treatment of the workers in the supply chain.
Process
Our journey starts on the high plateaus of Inner Mongolia, where the fine, downy hairs of the cashmere goat are meticulously combed by hand. These delicate fibres are then spun into yarns, knitted into fabrics, and crafted into contemporary pieces that form a complete cashmere wardrobe. Every step is a testament to precision – from measuring the fibre lengths to adjusting the yarn counts and shaping the silhouettes with careful consideration to form and function, demonstrating the intricate artisanry behind the product.
About Cashmere
Cashmere Hairs
Capra Hircus goats (cashmere goats), native to Inner Mongolia, are acclimated to the harsh, extremely cold winters they live through. To protect from temperatures as low as -30°C, the goats grow very soft, fine and downy hair below their long and coarse outer coat. As temperatures rise in spring, herders carefully hand comb the goats to extract the fine fibres, which would otherwise shed naturally. Cashmere goats produce a limited volume of these fibres each year – an average sweater requires two to five goats’ hair for production, illustrating the exclusive nature of cashmere.
Length & Fineness
The longer the fibre length, the better – longer fibres will reduce the volume of pilling as shorter fibres more easily loosen from the surface of the piece. Cashmere fibres are very fine – with an average diameter of less than 19 microns, compared to human hair which is 60-120 microns in diameter.
Insulation
Although extremely fine, cashmere fibres are hollow, making them lightweight and able to adjust to shifting temperatures. During winter, the air chambers trap heat from the body to prevent it from escaping, and insulates the wearer over eight times better than wool. In warmer months, the hygroscopic fibre wicks moisture away from the skin and creates a cooling effect, which extends the wearability of cashmere well into summer.
Gauge & Ply
Gauge refers to how tightly the cashmere has been knitted, which is measured in stitches per inch. The higher the gauge number, the finer the piece. An 18 gauge sweater is considered a featherweight, fine knit piece, whilst a 5 gauge sweater has a visibly thicker look and feel. Ply refers to the number of threads twined together to make a single piece of cashmere yarn. If two threads are combined, this is known as 2 ply cashmere, and three twisted threads are referred to as 3 ply, etc. Since cashmere hairs are naturally fine, they benefit from the increased strength of the twisted thread. Higher plies add to the fabric’s weight and warmth, but do not indicate additional quality.
Adding texture, fluidity, structure or transparency, our bespoke knitting techniques bring the fabric to life while preserving the unmistakably soft hand of cashmere.
Standard Knitting Techniques
Each season, we explore new innovations and expressions in cashmere, grounded in our material and artisan expertise. Adding lightness, depth, texture or structure, our bespoke knitting techniques bring modernity to time-honoured craft while challenging the conventions of cashmere design.
-
Fine KnitBreathable and naturally cooling, our finest knit, 18-gauge cashmere feels soft and barely there – the most delicate take on cashmere in its purest form. The exceptionally long and fine yarns ensure superior quality while making everyday jersey staples indulgent.
-
Double Face CashmereOur knitted double face cashmere, a construction where two layers of fabric are merged into one, creates silhouettes with shape. While keeping the softness of knitted cashmere, it mimics the structured look of a weave.
-
Brushed CashmereOur brushed cashmere is the result of years spent refining both the washing process and the delicate finishing techniques required to achieve its supremely soft, cloud-like texture. Through precise control of water temperatures and yarn tensions, the process creates a lofty surface.
-
Brushed Argyle CashmereOur take on the Argyle pattern, a British heritage classic with intercrossing diagonal lines layered over overlapping checks, is reinterpreted in brushed cashmere. The soft, lofty surface lends warmth and tactility to the graphic motif with a modern, novel outcome.
-
Full Needle MilanoOur full needle Milano fabric is crafted by interweaving two sets of yarn in a diagonal knit. This technique creates a fine vertical rib on one side and a diagonal pattern on the reverse. The added structure and shape makes it ideal for creating knitwear with structure.
-
Fisherman Rib KnitOur take on the classic fisherman rib knit produces a thick, cushioned and textured fabric with a flattened pattern, achieved by knitting into the stitch below rather than the active. This traps extra air, creating an incredibly warm fabric perfect for cold season pieces.
-
Paddington Rib KnitOur Paddington rib is based on traditional rib knitting but incorporating reverse-knit elements to achieve a flatter, more graphic surface. Requiring precise stitch placement, the technique results in a clean, modern knit with subtle depth and a smooth, architectural character.
-
Plain KnitOur plain knits, with their soft and smooth hand feel, are the starting point of each collection. They come as year-round, 12 gauge pieces for everyday wear, and heavy knit, 3-7 gauge pieces which are optimal for the colder months.
Standard Knitting Techniques
Each season, we explore new innovations and expressions in cashmere, grounded in our material and artisan expertise. Adding lightness, depth, texture or structure, our bespoke knitting techniques bring modernity to time-honoured craft while challenging the conventions of cashmere design.
-
Fine Knit
Breathable and naturally cooling, our finest knit, 18-gauge cashmere feels soft and barely there – the most delicate take on cashmere in its purest form. The exceptionally long and fine yarns ensure superior quality while making everyday jersey staples indulgent.
-
Double Face Cashmere
Our knitted double face cashmere, a construction where two layers of fabric are merged into one, creates silhouettes with shape. While keeping the softness of knitted cashmere, it mimics the structured look of a weave.
-
Brushed Cashmere
Our brushed cashmere is the result of years spent refining both the washing process and the delicate finishing techniques required to achieve its supremely soft, cloud-like texture. Through precise control of water temperatures and yarn tensions, the process creates a lofty surface.
-
Brushed Argyle Cashmere
Our take on the Argyle pattern, a British heritage classic with intercrossing diagonal lines layered over overlapping checks, is reinterpreted in brushed cashmere. The soft, lofty surface lends warmth and tactility to the graphic motif with a modern, novel outcome.
-
Full Needle Milano
Our full needle Milano fabric is crafted by interweaving two sets of yarn in a diagonal knit. This technique creates a fine vertical rib on one side and a diagonal pattern on the reverse. The added structure and shape makes it ideal for creating knitwear with structure.
-
Fisherman Rib Knit
Our take on the classic fisherman rib knit produces a thick, cushioned and textured fabric with a flattened pattern, achieved by knitting into the stitch below rather than the active. This traps extra air, creating an incredibly warm fabric perfect for cold season pieces.
-
Paddington Rib Knit
Our Paddington rib is based on traditional rib knitting but incorporating reverse-knit elements to achieve a flatter, more graphic surface. Requiring precise stitch placement, the technique results in a clean, modern knit with subtle depth and a smooth, architectural character.
-
Plain Knit
Our plain knits, with their soft and smooth hand feel, are the starting point of each collection. They come as year-round, 12 gauge pieces for everyday wear, and heavy knit, 3-7 gauge pieces which are optimal for the colder months.